The treasure of Art Nouveau architecture in Vienna is also a psychiatric clinic

Vienna - One can stumble upon the treasures of Art Nouveau architecture not only on the streets in the city center but also in the grounds of a psychiatric hospital on the outskirts of the metropolis. On 143 hectares, more than sixty pavilions were constructed in this style according to the plans of architect Otto Wagner at the beginning of the last century, with a church topped by a golden dome towering over them on the hilltop.
The symmetrically designed Art Nouveau "Otto Wagner Hospital" represented a city within a city, home to up to 6,000 people. Alongside hospital buildings, it housed all necessary technical facilities, laundries, kitchens, and even its own theater and Roman Catholic shrine. The architect divided the space along axes. The eastern part was reserved for men, and the western part for women. The building permit at the time even contained a justification for the gender segregation. It stated that it was necessary to prevent patients from "multiplying themselves," says church administrator Paul Keiblinger.
The cornerstone of the church was laid in 1904 by Emperor Franz Joseph I. The construction involved about 5,500 masons and craftsmen from across the monarchy. "This church was absolutely unusual. It was one of the first modern churches in Europe at the beginning of the 20th century. Otto Wagner marked a milestone in ecclesiastical architecture here," Keiblinger told ČTK.
In October 1907, the church was ceremonially opened. The seventy-seven-year-old monarch was represented by Archduke Franz Ferdinand. He couldn't resist commenting that he preferred the architectural style of Maria Theresa over Art Nouveau. Wagner apparently did not take this lightly. With all politeness, he responded to the heir to the throne that during the empress's time, the canons were also large and ornate, and now they are smaller and simpler, yet they can still shoot well - and similarly, one can pray well in his church.
A century ago, the shrine did not impress even the Viennese. Wagner's sacred building seemed too modern to them. At the time, they would not have allowed it to rise somewhere in the center of the metropolis. "Because the church was relatively far from the center and moreover located in a mental hospital, it was thought that this modern mad church fit here. The worst thing was that the Viennese said that the insane would become even crazier because of this mad church than they already were," the administrator recounts.
Today, the Church of St. Leopold is a favorite place for believers, architecture lovers, and the curious. The reward for overcoming the forty-meter elevation from the hospital gate is an unusual ecclesiastical building with a square floor plan. According to the administrator, "functionality has been integrated into art." "Wagner sought advice from doctors and hospital staff to ensure that the building met all the patients' needs," says Keiblinger.
The church has six rows of benches instead of the usual two. All benches are barrier-free, with no sharp edges, offering wider seating space. The walls of the church are clad in white marble, making them washable if necessary. There are no stairs leading to the pulpit; one can only ascend from a closed area accessible to the priest. Thus, patients could not climb up and hurt themselves if they fell.
The confessionals lack doors or curtains, allowing visibility into what the patient is doing. Holy water was not kept in a container where believers would dip their fingers but flowed from a special wall-mounted "jug." This, along with the candlesticks, retractable lights, and flower pot covers, were designed by the architect himself. The church also includes restrooms.
The church has a north-south orientation. Large side stained glass depicting angels and saints is found in the east and west. The light filtering in through them is gentle and not blinding, so it did not irritate the patients, noted the administrator. The bright space was designed to make people feel comfortable.
The author of the stained glass is Koloman Moser. He was originally supposed to paint the mural above the altar as well. However, Wagner failed to advocate for this. Moser was a Protestant, not a Catholic. His depiction of angels in the stained glass caused a scandal in the heart of the monarchy at the beginning of the last century. Heavenly beings had previously appeared as small plump children with wings. He represented them as slender, elegant adults.
Just like the Secession Pavilion, which earned the nickname "cabbage head from Naschmarkt" due to its dome of golden leaves, Wagner's church also acquired a new name. It began to be referred to as Lemoniberg or Lemon Mountain. The shining golden dome on the hilltop reminded the inhabitants of the imperial metropolis of a halved lemon. However, this was not the only name. There was also talk of it being the "tomb of an Indian Maharaja." To some, the church resembled the famous Taj Mahal.
Wagner's shrine can be visited every Saturday. Tours are held at 3 PM. Admission costs six euros (146 CZK). Those interested must wait until spring for the first mass of the year, which will take place on April 17.